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SPRINGTIME IN SVALBARD ARCTIC EXPEDITION CRUISE 11 – 20 MAY 2025

Journey Leader: Himraj Soin

THE EXPEDITION CRUISE

Our 51-member Arctic 2023 expedition cruise returned after a successful trip in May, accompanied by Mandip Singh Soin and Himraj Soin. Our 2024 journey was led by Himraj Soin.


The team braved the sub-zero temperatures and sailed along the western fjords of Svalbard, reaching 79.65 degrees North and mailed postcards from the world’s northernmost settlement at Ny Ålesund.

In the realm of the midnight sun, through sparkling ice formations, snowcovered mountains, fjord ice, they made their way in sturdy zodiac boats, dressed in polar suits, and had multiple sightings of polar bears, Arctic fox, reindeer, king eider ducks, puffins, rock ptarmigan, minke whales, ringed seals, and walruses.

They watched the archipelago come to life as they weaved through ice flows and glaciers that were calving, due to global warming.

The group was international, and the cuisine catered to all types of nonvegetarians, vegetarians, and vegans.

The polar bear is a threatened species due to the loss of sea ice habitat, climate change and trophy hunting in certain countries. The Ibex Expeditions Arctic team is joining us to launch an awareness campaign to ‘Save the Polar Bear’ with conservation organizations and every member of the expedition has pledged to be an advocate for this campaign.

We expect to have a similar immersive experience with the 2025 participants and the participants will pledge to join this initiative.

High points:
▪ Experience the Arctic Spring and stunning winter landscapes.
magical midnight sun with 24 hours of daylight!
▪ Visit the 3 historic polar/adventure museums in Oslo—the Fram, Viking, and Kon Tiki—on May 11, 2025 afternoon.

▪ Welcome dinner in Oslo on May 11, 2025.
▪ Best time for Polar bear and King Eider sightings.
▪ Expedition cruising in a small expedition vessel with 50 passengers
▪ Experienced naturalist outdoor guides.
▪ Daily zodiac rides
▪ Lectures and knowledge sharing in this region
▪ Possibility of short hikes or snowshoeing.
▪ Polar plunge into the icy waters (optional but fun).
▪ Possible landing or visit to the northernmost settlement in the world
▪ Doctor on board
▪ The trip is 100% climate-compensated.

Length: 9 days—1 night in Oslo (11th May 2025), 1 night in Longyearbyen (12th May 2025), and 7 nights on the ship (13th–20th May 2025).


Himraj Soin—Journey Leader
Himraj is Co-Founder and Producer at The Outdoor Journal and leads journeys for Ibex Expeditions.

He writes and shoots for international travel destinations, conservation issues, extreme adventure sports, athletes, gear, and more. His work has been published in Vogue, National Geographic Traveller India, Reader’s Digest UK, and Conde Nast Traveller.

An avid skier and climber, his expeditions have taken him to Bhutan, Tibet, Mongolia, Borneo, Madagascar, Peru, Morocco, Namibia, Argentina, Chile, Siberia, New Zealand, Tanzania, the Arctic, and Antarctica.

He was a team member on the International Antarctic Expedition, studying climate change and sustainability. Himraj is also a National Geographic Student Expedition Leader.

ITINERARY
In our climate-compensated small ship, with our sturdy Zodiacs, we explore this winter wonderland, heading for Svalbard’s most magnificent fjords, and we try to make landings wherever the ice and snow allow us.

The Arctic is the most unusual region on our planet, and is called enigmatic and mysterious, because this region hides miracles. The Arctic has a unique nature- the giant expanses of ice and snow, and huge icebergs of the most incredible and bizarre forms, drifting in the Arctic seas.

May 11 Arrival Oslo
Sunday (Approximate temperature expected: 11 Degrees Celsius high and 3 degrees Celsius low.)

After your arrival in Oslo, transfer on your own to a hotel. By 2 pm, we will be picked up by a bus and taken to the three Museums that reflect the polar and seafaring history of the Norwegians at the Fram & the Viking and the spirit of adventure at the Kon Tiki museums.

This evening at 1900 hrs., there will be a sit-down 3-course dinner amidst Jazz at the Ekspedisjonshallen at the Sommerro House.

Hotel Sommerro House, Oslo

May 12: Oslo-Longyearbyen, Svalbard, by morning flight
Monday (Approximate temperature: minus 8 degrees Celsius high and minus 6 degrees Celsius low)

We depart for Oslo Gardermoen airport for the flight to Longyearbyen in the morning after breakfast.

A Polar Quest representative will meet the group on arrival in Longyearbyen and transfer everyone to the Radisson Blu hotel for check-in. The rest of the day is at your leisure.

Waterproof boots can be hired today from the renting agency.

For dinner, everyone is on their own, and you can eat at the hotel or book either of the two local restaurants recommended, which even serve reindeer steaks and salmon, of course.

Hotel: Radisson Blu Polar Hotel, Road 229-3, 9171 Longyearbyen, Norway

Longyearbyen homes
Hotel Radisson Blu Polar

May 13, Longyearbyen: transfer to the Polar Quest ship
Tuesday (Temperatures expected from minus 10 degrees Celsius low to 0 degrees Celsius high.)

0700–1000 hours: Breakfast is at the hotel’s Radisson Blu restaurant.

1100 hours: Check out from the Radisson Blu Polar Hotel.

We will visit the Svalbard Museum, which collects, preserves, disseminates, and conducts research related to culture and natural history, the environment, and cultural heritage. In 1981, the museum was opened to the public for the first time.

1300 hours: We return to the hotel Radisson Blu Polar for lunch at the Restaurant Nansen, which serves Nordic fusion concept meals.

After lunch, we proceed in a bus to the pier in expedition gear to board the Zodiacs and embark on the ship.

Polar Quest ship anchored at Longyearbyen.

TEMPERATURE INSIDE THE SHIP
Approximately 22 degrees Celsius (71 degrees Fahrenheit).

Cabin category

Triple cabins
, upper and lower beds
[306, 312]

Twin cabin, 2 twin beds
[303, 305, 307, 309, 311, 315, 314, 316, 318, 321, 323, 325, 327]

Twin cabin plus 2 twin beds
[302, 304]

Double cabin, double bed
[320, 329]

Double cabin superior Large double bed
[301, 317, 319, 402]

Owner’s cabin, large double bed
[401]

Owner’s Cabin
Double cabin Superior
Double cabin
Twin Cabin
Triple cabin

Inclusions
1 night in an Oslo hotel on May 11, 2025, on a room-sharing basis as per cabin configuration at Sommerro House. Museum visit in coach with entrance fees on May 11, 2025.

Welcome Dinner on 11th May at Sommerro House.

Breakfast on May 12 at Sommerro House.

One airport transfer in Oslo from the hotel to the airport on May 12, 2025, in one coach.

1 night in the Radisson Blue Polar hotel in Longyearbyen as per ship cabin configuration on May 12th, without lunch or Dinner.

Breakfast and Lunch on May 13 at Longyearbyen at Radisson Blu Polar

A guided visit to the Svalbard Museum on May 13 in the afternoon.

7 nights on board M/S Quest, 13th–20th May 2025, with all meals starting with dinner on the 13th and ending with breakfast on the 20th.

Welcome dinner on the 13th on board the ship.

Coffee (cappuccino/espresso), tea, and hot chocolate are available 24 hours a day, seven days a week.

An experienced Expedition leader and five knowledgeable guides. All Zodiac excursions and activities from the ship.

Comprehensive information material and consultation with Ibex before the expedition cruise
an Insulated wind and waterproof one-piece polar suit for the duration of the cruise.

The cruise journey is climate-compensated.

Flights to/from Longyearbyen on May 12 and 20, 2025 (quoted above but subject to change)

Himraj Soin, an experienced adventure expert from Ibex Expeditions, provides overall coordination, gear, and safety advice.

Coordination by Ibex Expeditions P. Ltd.

Exclusions
International air tickets.
Schengen tourist visa.
Travel cancellation, medical, and evacuation insurance.
Arrival transfer in Oslo to the hotel on May 15 or earlier.
Additional hotel nights in Oslo prior to May 15.
Personal expenses such as bar and shop charges.
Customary gratuity to the ship’s guides and crew.
Personal expenses such as bar and shop charges.
Meals are not included in Oslo except the welcome dinner on May 15 and breakfast on May 16.
Boots hiring charges.
Satellite phone charges on board the ship.
Lunch and Dinner on May 16th en route and in Longyearbyen.
Phone cards that can be bought on board.
All personal gear and equipment.
Waterproof knee-high boots hiring charges.

Any services after arrival in Oslo airport from the return flight from Longyearbyen on May 24.

PLEASE NOTE: Do let Ibex Expeditions know of any medical conditions, allergies, and food
preferences.

Dining room
Zodiacs

11–20 May: Today, we head out through Isfjorden on our Arctic adventure.
Sunday-Tuesday

These are places we may visit, depending on the weather and the route.

For the next week, this is the time flow for each day (approximately, as it will depend on the weather, snow and ice conditions, and wildlife spotting).

As we are travelling in mid-May, when the Arctic winter landscape is stunning with a high chance of Polar bear sightings, it may happen due to snow conditions that some days we may not have landings and it will be Zodiac-based excursions.

0800–0845 hours Breakfast
0900 hours Depart from the ship. 0900–1130/1200 hrs. Zodiac excursion.
1230 hours Lunch on board.
1430–1630 or 1700 hrs. Zodiac excursion.
1845 hours Recap/lecture on board.
1930 hours Dinner

The 2025 Svalbard expedition and cruise will go along the Western fjords.
Zodiac experience

Alkhornet
At the entrance of Isfjorden is the characteristic cliff, Alkhornet. Enjoy the beautiful tundra and its birdlife with barnacle geese, Brünnich’s guillemots, glaucous gulls, snow buntings, and tens of thousands of kittiwakes. Arctic foxes are seen in the rock crevices around the mountain.

Arctic Fox

Prins Karls Forland
This narrow strip of land is covered by a magnificent snow-covered mountain chain. The island is also home to seabirds and harbour seals.

Ptarmigan

Kongsfjorden and Krossfjorden
The scientific village of Ny-lesund is situated in Kongsfjorden. It was from here that Amundsen and Nobile started their heroic expeditions to the North Pole. In the nearby Krossfjorden, we revel in the beautifully sculptured front of the 14th of July Glacier to the raucous greeting of the considerable number of kittiwakes and Brünnich’s guillemots nesting on the nearby cliffs.

King Eider

Raudfjorden
Raudfjorden is an area of immense natural beauty, dominated by beautiful glaciers. It is also a favourite spot for seals, and the bird cliffs are bursting with activity.

Arctic landscape

Virgohamna, Danskøya
Two of the most courageous attempts to reach the North Pole started on the island of Danskya. Swedish explorer Andrée tried with a hydrogen balloon, and American journalist Wellman started with an airship. There are still interesting remnants from these Arctic expeditions left on this site.

POLAR PLUNGE

The Polar Plunge is a fearsome rite of passage for visitors to the Arctic. All participants wear tethered harnesses and plunge into the icy polar waters from the gangplank, cheered on by fellow passengers.

Those wishing to undertake this iconic polar activity, which entails jumping into the icy waters under supervision from the ship on a designated ‘good weather ’ day, You must bring swimwear and courage!

Walrus
King Eiders in flight

Bellsund
At the beautiful Vrsolbukta in Bellsund, little auks’ nest by the tens of thousands. We go ashore and walk across the tundra to take a closer look at these charming birds.


Hornsund
The majestic Hornsund consists of magnificent fjords along the west coast of Spitsbergen, where enormous glaciers calve out shimmering blue ice. This is one of the favourite haunts for Svalbard’s polar bears, and if we’re lucky, we can spot one of them on the fjord ice.
Polar bear

Polar Bear

Snowshoeing
For the active, there is a chance to explore the areas we visit with snowshoes. This is an extra option that requires a proficient level of fitness. Please note that this activity is always dependent on weather, wind, and other safety precautions. The ship will have snowshoes to get into it.

By the 24th of May evening, our ship will return to the pier by late evening or night.

Please note: Our exact route will depend on ice, weather conditions, and wildlife. The places mentioned are just examples of the sites Svalbard has to offer. Polar Quest always strives to maximize our experience. Please remember that flexibility is the key to a successful expedition!

May 24: Longyearbyen to Oslo

We will have an early breakfast at 0700 hours and between 0800 – 0830 hours, we will depart for the town by bus where all of us will be free to explore shops or cafes for last-minute souvenirs before leaving for the airport at around midday.

Our return flight to Oslo will be in the afternoon (TBD after 2024 flight schedules are announced) in a 2 hours 55 minutes nonstop flight duration.

A snack of sandwiches may be bought on the flight, but it is recommended to have this packed from a local café called Café Huskies.

ABOUT THE SHIP

The ship was built in Denmark in 1992 to serve as a ferry on Greenland’s west coast. In 2004/2005 and was refurbished into a comfortable expedition ship and in 2018 she underwent a renovation of the passenger areas. The ship takes 53 passengers, and all 26 cabins are outside cabins with private facilities.


The triple cabins have upper and lower berths. All other cabins have two lower berths or a double bed. In your cabin, you will find a desk with a chair and a cupboard for storage. The superior cabins are spacious and have armchairs and a TV. The owner’s cabin has a double bed, two large picture windows, a separate seating area and a TV.


In the dining room, we will enjoy delicious meals in between landings and in the panorama lounge, we will enjoy breath-taking views of the surrounding landscape. Here we will listen to entertaining talks on the area’s flora, fauna, and history. In the lounge, there is a bar and a small library.


The ship has spacious observation decks, where we enjoy the beautiful vistas. Passengers are welcome on the bridge around the clock and there is always something to see or search for. An international crew welcomes us onto the ship, and we have five Zodiacs and five guides on board.

Photo courtesy: Ajit Dayal, Mandip Singh Soin, Himraj Soin, Yasho Saboo, Philip Hammick, Rahul Verghese, Vivek Srivastava, Vide Brandt.

The magical midnight Sun.

The eternal sun, polar day – the midnight sun is known by many names.

Regardless of what you choose to call this natural phenomenon, it is a unique experience to visit Svalbard during the summer months when the days never end. Most people know about the midnight sun, but do you really know what causes the phenomenon?

In Svalbard, the sun does not set between mid-April and the end of August. During this period, the North Pole faces the sun and the further north you are from the Arctic Circle, the longer the midnight sun shines. The Earth’s axis is tilted at an angle of approximately 23°, which means that the sun does not

The magical midnight Sun.

The eternal sun, polar day – the midnight sun is known by many names.

Regardless of what you choose to call this natural phenomenon, it is a unique experience to visit Svalbard during the summer months when the days never end. Most people know about the midnight sun, but do you really know what causes the phenomenon?

In Svalbard, the sun does not set between mid-April and the end of August. During this period, the North Pole faces the sun and the further north you are from the Arctic Circle, the longer the midnight sun shines. The Earth’s axis is tilted at an angle of approximately 23°, which means that the sun does not

The magical midnight Sun.

The eternal sun, polar day – the midnight sun is known by many names.

Regardless of what you choose to call this natural phenomenon, it is a unique experience to visit Svalbard during the summer months when the days never end. Most people know about the midnight sun, but do you really know what causes the phenomenon?

In Svalbard, the sun does not set between mid-April and the end of August. During this period, the North Pole faces the sun and the further north you are from the Arctic Circle, the longer the midnight sun shines. The Earth’s axis is tilted at an angle of approximately 23°, which means that the sun does not

The magical midnight Sun.

The eternal sun, polar day – the midnight sun is known by many names.

Regardless of what you choose to call this natural phenomenon, it is a unique experience to visit Svalbard during the summer months when the days never end. Most people know about the midnight sun, but do you really know what causes the phenomenon?

In Svalbard, the sun does not set between mid-April and the end of August. During this period, the North Pole faces the sun and the further north you are from the Arctic Circle, the longer the midnight sun shines. The Earth’s axis is tilted at an angle of approximately 23°, which means that the sun does not disappear below the horizon if you are at high latitudes. In Svalbard, this means exposure to the sun around the clock. When the Earth’s axis tilts the other way during the winter months, everything north of the Arctic Circle is hidden from
the sun’s rays. You then talk about polar night or midwinter darkness.

The perfect light

Many who have experienced the midnight sun describe the phenomenon as a golden shimmer. This combined with the Arctic silence is something truly special to experience. The light from the midnight sun can be compared to the “golden hour”, the time just before or just after sunset, something that many photographers consider provides the perfect conditions. This also offers the perfect opportunity for capturing unforgettable photos!

Day and night flow together

It can be difficult to keep track of time when day and night flow together. The bright nights trigger us to stay up and enjoy everything that the dreamlike Arctic landscape has to offer. Many locals get an extra boost of energy during these months when the sun is constantly above the horizon and like to stay awake into the wee hours. As a visitor, it is important to use blackouts or eye masks to get the necessary sleep even though the magical light calls for attention!

TRAVEL RESPONSIBLY

The mean temperature is rising, and the glaciers are melting. Microplastics and chemicals are polluting our seas and the world needs to make an instant change. A journey through these spectacular wildernesses evokes feelings and creates memories for life. Help us to preserve it for generations to come!


Tourism holds a great responsibility when it comes to education and making observations and is one of the few businesses that gain from preserving the areas we visit. It is a necessity for our survival. We can observe both changes in the environment as well as other industries and how they act. We travel in small groups and strive to have minimal impact on the environment. Small expedition ships are the most sustainable way to explore the wildlife and nature of Svalbard.

Investing in the Environment
We cannot avoid emitting greenhouse gases and until renewable fuels are available, Polar Quest invests in projects with positive effects on nature, to be transparent with our emissions, and to do our best to reduce our emissions continuously. We have measured all our emissions from flights, overland transport, expedition cruises, meals, and hotel nights. The same philosophy is reflected by Ibex Expeditions in our journeys.

RESPONSIBLE TRAVELLER GUIDELINES ~ www.rtsoi.org

The Responsible Tourism Society of India launched the Responsible Traveller guidelines which will be a National campaign by the Ministry of Tourism, Government of India in partnership with the United Nations Environment Programme in India. We request all participants to support these guidelines.

SINGLE USE PLASTIC

One of the key points in our Responsible Traveller campaign is to carry your own steel insulated water bottle for the entire Ibex Expeditions Arctic journey.


As a responsible team, we do not use any single use plastic, the biggest destroyer of the planet. Please take a pledge to refill bottles at the Oslo and Longyearbyen hotels to minimize mineral water bottle plastic usage. We encourage all our team members to try, and carbon offset their international flights to Oslo and back.

We wish you an unforgettable journey to one of the planet’s greatest wilderness areas.

Springtime in Svalbard Artic Expedition featured on “The Straits Times, Singapore” organized by Ibex Expeditions.

FOR ITINERARY AND MORE DETAILS

Email Ibex Expeditions for details  @ibex@ibexexpeditions.com

COSTA RICA – THE PEACEFUL SOUL OF CENTRAL AMERICA

“Rain forest hikes and brisk high-altitude trails, rushing white-water rapids and warm-water, world-class surfing, Costa Rica offers outdoor adventures – from the rush of a canopy zipline to a sun-dazed afternoon at the beach.” ~ Lonely Planet

Costa Rica is a rugged, rainforested Central American country with coastlines on the Caribbean and Pacific. Costa Rica is known for its beaches, volcanoes, and biodiversity. Roughly a quarter of its area is made up of protected jungle, teeming with wildlife including spider monkeys and quetzal birds.

This very special journey will be led by Himraj Soin who a travel writer and photographer and leads expeditions for National Geographic where he teaches photography in different parts of the world. His works have been featured in Vogue, National Geographic Traveler, India; Reader’s Digest UK and Vice, amongst others.

April 18th to 29th 2020

Day 1 (April 18th) Arrive in San Jose – Bougainvillea Hotel

Saturday Arrival in Costa Rica. Transfer on your own to Hotel Bougainvillea. Your trip leader will meet the group at the hotel at the evening for a briefing and answering questions of your itinerary.
Service included: Hotel Bougainvillea.
Meals on your own.

Day 2 (April 19th) Tortuguero National Park

Sunday Departure at 0600 hours, you will experience going through the Braulio Carrillo National Park, mountain road, climbing to the cloud forest at 2200 meters and descending close to sea level.

Breakfast at Río Danta and then continue to La Pavona in Guapiles where you will take a motorboat to Tortuguero National Park, which is accessible only by water or by air.

11:00 a.m. Arrival to the pier and after a chance for restroom use, board Mawamba’s boat for one-hour ride to Tortuguero and Mawamba Lodge (times might vary depending on river’s water level).

12:15-1:00 p.m. Arrival to Mawamba Lodge. Welcome by the manager, and check into your room.

Afterwards, meet your tour guide and group at the Restaurant by the pool area for a buffet lunch. Kayaking in the afternoon.

INCLUDED: Private transportation, all meals and guides.

Day 3 (April 20th): Day at Mawamba Lodge

Monday Visiting Tortuguero town, Kayaking tour & Motorboat tour into Tortuguero canals. Breakfast available from 7:30 to 9:00 a.m. Kayaking in the morning.

Lunch is served from 12:30 p.m. to 2:00 p.m. Meet for the afternoon canal tour in the Tortuguero National Park. Visit one of the park’s canals by boat and discover with your guide the wonderful biodiversity that resides in this area.

Visit Tortuguero Village at 04 p.m. Through this visit, learn about the ways of life of the local residents of Tortuguero, a small town of approximately 1300 people. After the visit, we will return to the lodge walking by the beach trail leading to the lodge (weather permitting).

From Mawamba Lodge, one can actually walk to/from town without needing to take a boat. In case you would rather not walk, please inform your tour guide who will arrange boat transportation back for you.

Dinner will be served at 7:30 p.m. at the restaurant by the pool.

INCLUDED: All meals, Mawamba Lodge, Guides, Kayaking tour and Motorboat tour.

Day 4 (April 21st) Tortuguero National Park to Pacuare River

Tuesday 7:30 a.m. Breakfast is served at the Lodge. We kindly ask you to check out of your room around 8:30 a.m. and gather around the reception area for departure at 9:00 a.m. back to La Pavona where our transportation will be waiting for the group.

11:00 a.m. Arrival to La Pavona, use the restrooms before boarding the bus.

Transfer to the Operations Center in El Cairo de Siquirres where you will have lunch and leave the extra luggage for the rafting experience on Pacuare River.

(rated top 5th Best River to raft in the World by National Geographic).

Once in the river you will paddle downstream to your riverside accommodation, the award-winning Rios Tropicales Lodge (accessible only by raft or foot).

Along its course, lie several densely vegetated gorges sheltering many animals, including sloths, river otters and anteaters, and incredible variety of birds such as toucans, egrets, herons, kingfishers, sunbirds and trogons.

As soon as you arrive at the lodge, your guide will give you a briefing of the lodge and the activities for the next three days.

INCLUDED: Transfer from Tortuguero to Pacuare River to the Ríos Tropicales Lodge. Breakfast, lunch, dinner and river guides.

Day 5 (April 22nd): Ríos Tropicales Lodge

Wednesday Activities at Ríos Tropicales Lodge: Your guide will inform you the times for these activities. This tour includes hiking through the rainforest. Enjoy a wonderful 9-line zip line course through the canopy, six-zip lines crossing over the Pacuare River.

Multiple tree platforms and zip lines make this a thrilling, must-do experience.

We guarantee not only the safety in construction but also its operation through all the equipment (helmets, harnesses and gloves) that is provided. The tour starts just 10 minutes from the lodge by walking through the forest then, slip on end-to-end zip lines connected by a series of aerial and land platforms from which you can appreciate the incredible river and private reserve of Pacuare, also, you can see butterflies, birds, reptiles and an impressive nature.

INCLUDED: Ríos Tropicales Lodge, breakfast, lunch, dinner, zip line-canopy tour and guide.

Day 6 (April 23rd): Ríos Tropicales Lodge

Thursday Activity at Ríos Tropicales Lodge: Horseback riding – Tree Planting – Butterfly garden. Your guide will inform you the time for these activities.

The tour starts from Rios Tropicales lodge to Bajo Del Tigre community by hiking up the main trail and then riding horseback to this local village. Once there, your guide will introduce you to their agricultural way of life, economy, population and culture.

You will tour their sustainable farming projects, hear about what sustainable development means to them and their community.

You can also ride horseback all the way to Terciopelos farm, which is part of Rios Tropicales Private reserve. There you can participate in a reforestation project by planting one or more trees (optional, ask your guide).

Then you will continue the tour until the Mariposas del Pacuare Project developed by a neighbor of the community.

It has more than 10 different species of butterflies, and from where you can enjoy incredible views of the Pacuare Canyon. At the end of this beautiful experience, you will enjoy a delicious lunch returning to the lodge, a part by horseback ride and walking.

INCLUDED: Rios Tropicales Lodge, breakfast, lunch, dinner, horseback riding, tree planting & butterfly garden activities and guides.

Day 7 (April 24th): Pacuare River to Trogón Lodge

Friday Today we will continue our whitewater rafting activity, entering the lush, magical gorge of the Rio Pacuare. The rapids became more powerful and technical in nature here, and we will power through “Bobo”, “Huacas Arriba” “Huacas Abajo”, “Cimarrones” and “Dos Montañas”.

Gorgeous waterfalls tumble into the river and we be might fortunate to catch a glimpse of some of the exotic birds and animals inhabiting the surrounding jungle.

We will walk near the town of Siquirres and departure after lunch to Trogon Lodge. (4 hours’ drive). Trogon Lodge is in the area known as Savegre Valley in the small town of San Gerardo de Dota.

As one drives up, marvelous views appear before your eyes, carrot & potato plantations, the countryside, and on a clear day, scenic views of the Province of Cartago and Valley.

At an altitude of 7,000 feet above sea level (2200 meters) and surrounded by the unspoiled ecology of the area, Trogon Lodge sits amidst dazzling flowers, showing amazing shades of colors and where centennial oak trees show their impressive roots.

INCLUDED: Rafting activity, all meals, private transportation, Trogón Lodge and guide

Day 8 (April 25th): Trogón Lodge

Saturday Hiking Activity searching for the mythical Quetzal. Signature Trogón Lodge tour! San Gerardo de Dota is home to a large population of one of the most beautiful birds in the Americas, the Resplendent Quetzal. From the Trogon Family and sacred bird to the ancient indigenous cultures, Quetzals have a peaceful and tranquil living in the area and reside here year-round.

The climate and good amount of food (Aguacatillo tree) provide a great habitat for these birds. Join the guide for coffee, before departing at 6:00 am on a quest to find Quetzals.

With its metallic green plumage, crimson breast, bell, and its incredible streamer-like feathers, watching a male Quetzal in its magical fly, is a unique, breathtaking experience.

INCLUDED: All meals, Private Transportation, Trogón Lodge, Hiking Tour and guide.

Day 9 (April 26th): Travel day to Uvita

Sunday After Breakfast at Trogón, travel for 2 hours by coach to Uvita, staying at Cuna del Angel Hotel. Described by many as one of the most biologically diverse areas in the world, southwestern Costa Rica has plenty of beautiful beaches and fantastic vistas.

Of the many spectacular beaches found here, Playa Uvita is among the most stunning beaches on Costa Rica’s southern Pacific coast. Located in the southern Puntarenas province roughly 16 km south of Dominical, a surfing hotspot, Playa Uvita is situated within the Marino Ballena National Park.

This marine park is very popular because between the months of December and April Humpback, whales migrate here to the warm waters off the coast to mate before returning up north.

INCLUDED: All meals, Private Transportation, Hotel Cuna del Angel and guide.

Day 10 (April 27th): Hiking Corcovado National Park Day Tour

Monday The Corcovado National Park Full Day Nature Tour departs from Punta Uvita at 7:00 AM and arrives approximately 1 ½ hours later at San Pedrillo Ranger Station in the Corcovado National Park. Upon arrival you will prepare for two guided nature tour hikes along two different trails and observe beautiful flora and fauna.

Each hike takes around 2 hours. During the hikes you will be able to see many mammals such as spider, howler, and white-faced monkeys, sloths, coatis, raccoons, and tapirs as well as a great variety of birds, plants, and trees with over one hundred years of existence and in danger of extinction.

After the first hike, we serve a picnic lunch near the San Pedrillo ranger station and then we begin the second trek. During boat transit from Punta Uvita beach to Corcovado National Park, you may observe whales, dolphins, turtles, marine birds and fantastic views of the southern pacific Osa coastline. The boat returns from Corcovado National park at 2.00 pm and arrives to Punta Uvita at 4:00 p.m.

INCLUDED: All meals, Private Tour at Corcovado National Park, Guides, Cuna del Angel Hotel.

Day 11 (April 28th): Return to San José at Grano de Oro Hotel

Tuesday After breakfast at the hotel, we will depart to San Jose (4 to 5 hours’ drive). We will drive through Costanera Sur highway, crossing the Villages of Quepos and Jaco until reaching San José. We will stop for lunch on the way.

Hotel Grano de Oro: In Costa Rica, the term “Grano de Oro” is used to refer to the coffee bean, their “Grain of Gold”. The founders of this boutique hotel fell in love with the idea that such a small fruit could be so valuable. Hotel Grano de Oro was started by a Canadian couple who frequented Costa Rica for vacation. They loved the natural beauty of the country and the people, and in particular the metropolitan city of San Jose.

They found that San José was lacking an upscale boutique-style hotel, offering a unique, personalized service – in other words a “Grain of Gold”. The Hotel Grano de Oro opened its doors in December of 1991.

The restaurant is one of a kind in the city offering an elegant indoor dining room, a beautiful inner courtyard, a handcrafted indoor/outdoor bar and an award-winning wine cellar. The Hotel and Restaurante Grano de Oro and its staff continually focus on pleasing its customers and exceeding their expectations. The Hotel Grano de Oro is a member of two groups of boutique hotels: Small Distinctive Hotels of Costa Rica and Cayuga Sustainable Hospitality Collection.

INCLUDED: Breakfast, lunch on the way, private transportation, Grano de Oro Hotel and guide.

If time permits, drop by the Café Sin Domicilio Fijo and have a drink or coffee or even a bite as their food is organic. It is in a 200-year-old Colonial house. Inside the store has more than 70 national and international exhibitors design, arts and crafts. 

Day 12 (April 29th): Departure

 

First Indian ascent of Meru North — a personal account

In 1986, mountaineer Mandip Singh Soin and a small group of friends made the first Indian ascent of Meru North, alpine style — fulfilling one climber’s determination to defeat the crux that had been his undoing before. Mandip Singh Soin writes a gripping account for The Outdoor Journal. 

The camera panned in slow motion sweeping across the 2,460-foot rock face to the glacier below. As I clung on at the crux, hammering a piton for protection, I felt the shiver again. Not from the 5°Celsius temperature while climbing at over 18,000 ft, but because I had just then sensed the enormity of this exercise.

My wife Anita, pregnant with our daughter Himali, had fretted frantically when I first told her I was planning to embark on an expedition with two Indians and a Swedish friend to climb Mount Meru. I soothed her with euphemisms: It’s a cakewalk, I said, a mere stroll through the Himalaya. Later, however, as we watched the telecast footage, Anita gasped. Everything came to scale: suddenly, the contortion on the screen seemed not too hard after all, whilst by contrast, in my own bedroom that evening, I hung on for dear life, fearful of the imprecations of my outraged wife.

And suddenly, it seemed unfortunate that Åke Nilsson, our Swedish friend, had filmed the climb so beautifully and that Charu Sharma had told its story with eloquence, for the film captured the experience perhaps too accurately and poignantly for my wife. The footage was aired on prime time television soon after the movie Gandhi. I tried, weakly, to remind Anita of the philosophies of ahimsa as she muttered beneath her breath.

The ‘clinging on at the crux’ depicted in that suspenseful scene was significant. It had been the culmination and undoing of the previous year’s attempt by Åke, part of a Swedish expedition, to climb Meru North.

So there we were in late 1985 after Åke’s return to Delhi, at the bar of the India International Centre – the watering hole before lectures on faraway places and unimaginable accomplishments. As with many a good expedition plan, in between Kingfisher beers and upturned beer coasters with rudimentary routes resembling ibex scratches, we evolved a plan of action to reach the crux. It was exciting to try to attempt a technical route, the likes of which were rarely attempted by mountaineers in India. With the last beer in the bar drained, the die had been cast and we toasted to what would become the world’s first Indian ascent of Mt. Meru’s North summit.

MERU’S NORTH UPPER ROCK FACE GOES AT 5.9 OR HARDER, AND HAD DEFEATED THE PREVIOUS SWEDISH ATTEMPT. THE TEAM’S GOAL WAS TO OVERCOME THIS TECHNICAL ROCK.

Åke would bring a strong climber friend from his previous Meru attempt, Birger Andren, and I would join him with two delightfully mad climber friends Dr Tejvir Singh Khurana and Charu Sharma. We had been climbing together since our university days in Delhi on the crags of the nearby Aravalli hills and its rough slates of sandstone. By the time Åke started visiting India on a work trip with the Swedish International Development Agency for groundwater research, he was quick to see that digging deep for groundwater was a lot of work, but climbing far above it was much better! It wasn’t long before he joined our motorcycle rides to Dhauj and Damdama in the Aravalli as we rode off with coiled ropes and rock climbing crash helmets.

Dr Tejvir Singh Khurana aka “Teji” was a fearless Sikh, very much on the frontline of putting up new routes at the Dhauj rock face. The joke was that between him and his other doctor-climber brother Jaisy, the only prescription ever to emerge from either was of countless alcohol bottles for “medical” reasons! He went on to Harvard to study medicine and is currently a researcher in Philadelphia, last known to have carried mice on Everest to study muscular dystrophy at high altitudes. During the Meru climb, he insisted on using us as guinea pigs. The experiment involved taking our blood samples far too many times, to calculate the extent to which blood thickened at altitude. A second experiment was to continually peer into our eyes with a flashlight, to check for retina blood vessel ruptures, and then correlate it with altitude adaptation. All his objectives were highly suspect, but we gave in the name of teamwork and tiredness.

Åke Nilsson had discovered in his many years in India that “Swedish” implied “dessert”. He adapted to the country and its idiosyncrasies of language, accents and pronunciation with a smile. He had also acquired a reputation as a ladies’ man. So it was always a bonus to be around him at parties! Having taken to climbing, he made rapid progress and was able to make the first ascent of Swargarohini in the Garhwal after the success of Meru. Today, as an international consultant, he traverses continents and flies the flag of the Himalayan club as its Local Secretary in Scandinavia.

It was with a sense of disbelief that we discovered Birger Andren had unusually high blood pressure when he reached Base Camp. He would have to return to Delhi for further checks. This was a big loss for our team, but we took the rough with the smooth, and persevered.

From Delhi, things were falling into place. I managed to get permission to go on the trek by telling Anita that Meru was going to be a ‘cakewalk’ and the others had nodded in agreement – the first measure of great teamwork! Åke was asked to get from Sweden specialized climbing gear that we couldn’t then (and still today) get in India, like plastic mountaineering Koflach boots, and rappel devices. Pripps and Vicks became our overseas sponsors. Charu (who didn’t smoke) worked for Vazir Sultan Tobacco, so they became our major sponsors. We named our expedition the “Charminar Challenge Indo-Swedish Meru expedition”. We took a few trekking friends, including Jean-Phillipe who would assist us in filming, and Dr. Pathak, who was in cahoots with Teji for all his highly suspect medical experiments! Of course, with my own company, Ibex Expeditions, I made sure we put our best foot forward for helping arrange all expedition logistics.

Meru lies at the headwaters of the river Ganga (Ganges). It remains hidden as one walks up the picturesque Gangotri valley from the roadhead at the temple. Every ring of the temple bells filled the mind with a revolving kaleidoscope of the Hindu pantheon: this was a valley steeped in legend and mythology. Our first footfalls were already soft and obedient as we observed the evening aarti and started our neo-immersion into things godly. In 1986, at 29 years of age, one was apt to look more enticingly on the smoke out of the sadhu’s pipe rather than smoke out the demons of our minds. Although most of us were not really religious, and certainly not ritualistic, we too sought contentment in life. So we prayed to all the gods for safe passage at the ashram towns we passed through, happily conversing with people from all walks of life, reveling in this valley’s very special, spiritual atmosphere.

Meru's North upper rock face goes at 5.9 or harder, and had defeated the previous Swedish attempt. The team's goal was to overcome this technical rock.

After Rishikesh, we reached Uttarkashi and dealt with the paperwork needed for permits, and potential rescue procedures with the local administration, and also visited the famous Nehru Institute of Mountaineering. The next morning we set off in a private bus, passing landslides and journeying through the deep gorge of the Bhagirathi River. A small truck followed with our gear.

After Gangotri, we started trekking at about 9843 ft, passing Chirbasa, then Bhujbasa the next day, and finally Tapovan, the beautiful grassy meadow at 14,435 ft under the headwall of the mighty Shivling – The Himalayan cousin of Switzerland’s Matterhorn, both in shape and form. We spent this extra day deliberately, so that we didn’t confront any altitude problems, as we knew there would be enough technical ones to occupy us.

After a night at the BC, we were moving in slow motion the next morning as we struggled to get exceedingly heavy rucksacks on our back, get the climbing ropes in order and climb in pairs –Åke with Teji and Charu with me. Although it was tempting to use a few fixed ropes from the previous year’s attempt – and we did occasionally use them – we were very aware of possible cuts and damage. We essentially climbed with our double ropes and quickly moved on this not-very-steep ground. As soon as we got to the top of a pitch, the rest of us would jumar up quickly. Of course, Charu, despite his grunts, flashed his best profile as he neared Åke, who was busy shooting with the lightweight, first-generation Sony Handycam.

TEJBIR SINGH KHURANA BETWEEN THE FIRST AND SECOND BIVOUAC ON THE MERU NORTH HEADWALL, AUGUST 1986

Our first bivy was at a reasonably wide ledge called “Swallows’ Nest,” as it was just a third of the way up the face. We saw startling views of the twin peaks of Shivling as we gazed at its West face. The morning broke to light up the twin summits. As the sun’s first rays warmed us, we began climbing the rest of the rock face with the hope of getting as high as possible, so that the following day we would be well poised below the crux. This was at the very end of the rock face before joining onto the snow and ice ridge of the upper 2625 ft.

By now, the route had become far steeper at 70-80 degrees, and we encountered the occasional water stream. Later the same day, we faced some alarming rock fall, most of which fortunately bounced away harmlessly. Both Teji and I as Sikhs had taken the precaution of swapping cloth turbans for fiberglass helmets! The going got a bit slower here due to the gradient, and we arrived to our next spot where we would get a night’s rest. It was the same spot that Åke had used the previous year.

Compared to the previous night, we felt downgraded, like having gone from Business class to Economy, only even worse. We all sat on a narrow ledge on this massive mountain wall, with legs dangling; no blankets, only sleeping bags; and since there was no service at this altitude, we resorted to using our delicately balanced gas stoves for lots of tea and soup.

The next morning, the sun was slower in reaching our rock face and we made a variety of excuses for a delayed start (which we bought into happily–good thing, this teamwork business). Making sure we didn’t drop any gear into the abyss below, we packed deliberately. It had not been a very comfortable night: Each of us had had a similar experience of nodding off and finding ourselves pulled and pressed at those delicate parts of the anatomy. We unanimously called it the ‘Ge Night-al’1 bivy.

Now the ground got steeper to about 80 degrees and more; soon we were near the last 320 ft of the rock face, at the crux. Åke had led up to a pitch below and it had been HVS / E1, (English grades) climbing in the last few pitches. With a secure belay from Åke, I led the last one up with some delicate moves despite large plastic Koflach boots. Having managed to get up and secure the belay, I yelled with happiness for them to come on up. Finally we were at the snow lip. The route went on to flatten out in a snow bowl, and here we made our third bivy (called simply the “platform bivy”), cut out with our snow shovel. Now, back in Business class, we could claim our flat beds!

This was called the “Sautan” bivy–Swedish for ‘Satan’. It was cold at minus 15º Celsius and we didn’t even have our sleeping bags. Legs were stuffed into emptied rucksacks; climbing rope coils became our seats. The one emergency bivy bag we carried was spread as a thin sheet as we sat huddled up, shivering, with a weak stove, even weaker jokes, and howling spin-drift. At one point, it was fascinating to convert Sikh jokes into Irish ones: Why did 19 Irishmen go to see the movies? ‘Because they read the movie poster that said – Under 18 not allowed’.

At that moment, the movies seemed so far away.

FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: MANDIP SINGH SOIN, THE AUTHOR OF THE STORY; ÅKE NILSSON, TEJBIR SINGH KHURANA (TEJI) AND CHARU SHARMA. ÅKE CARRIED A SONY HANDYCAM UP THE ENTIRE CLIMB, VIDEOING IT FOR PRIMETIME INDIAN TELEVISION. BIRGER ANDREN, THE FIFTH MEMBER, HAD TO DROP OUT FOR MEDICAL REASONS.

We were the quickest to get up at day break and started to get ready – luckily we had carried our emergency bivy stuff and the stove and re-hydration had come in handy. We had six pitches left and Teji led valiantly on steep snow with the final pitch being taken by Ake along the gentle crest that made the Meru North summit. We sat straddled and enjoyed the 5000 ft chasm that lay on one side of us–between Meru and Shivling–with the Thaley Sagar massif behind us. Åke’s filming was luckily going to come to an end, and Charu would stop striking his best poses; as a result I thought we had a good chance of descending quicker!

As it happened, we had to be doubly alert on the descent, because nightfall set in just as we reached the platform bivy. We had to jump across a few crevasses very deliberately and slowly, as this was not the time to lose alertness. The summit is only halfway. We were at the end of an exhausting day. With only enough food supplies left for the last day, we got back to the edge of the snow lip, pulled off crampons, changed gear, and started rappelling down all the way into ABC in one shot.

The following day, we were met by some of our team who had come up to ABC and were we glad to give up some weight. At base camp, hot pakoras and Indian chai never tasted better.

The journey back was uneventful except that when we were leaving BC, a Japanese team of four was also going to climb Meru North, taking a variation on our route on the rock face. On our return in Delhi, we heard they were killed in a rock fall. We were shattered, having exchanged a few pleasantries with them, but it put perspective to our own ascent – of the luck we had had and really some of the many gods, perhaps, who had cast a protective eye over us. We were certainly more centered after the ascent of the beautiful Meru – the centre of the Universe, according to Hindu lore. Regarded as the Olympus of Hindu mythology, with all the planets revolving around it, the Ganges falling from heaven on its summit, and the whole mountain covered with gems, Mt. Meru’s summit is the residence of Brahma and its four quarters, guarded by the Regents. It makes for a perfect place of meeting of all the divine beings.

The film ended and when Anita looked into my eyes, I knew I could never say I was off for another “cakewalk” again. I am still looking for another word.

Feature Image:  ÅKe Nilsson and Charu Sharma on the summit of Meru North.

Images:  Mandip Singh Soin

10 Places on Earth that Feel Like Outer Space

 

Himali Singh Soin writes about ten places on Earth that feel like outer space. This article was originally published by vice.com. Images by Himraj Soin.

Like every child, I wanted to touch the moon, wear stars on my face and blow bubbles into supernovas. Growing up on a diet of David Cronenberg and Star Wars movies, it always felt like the stars were so close and yet so far. But, like you, I soon learnt that the stars aren’t what they seem. They’re just hot, dying stones instead of lit masses of wonder. So I decided to go in search of the most distant, faraway and paranormal places on this planet instead.

I stocked up on warm jackets, cool hats, canvas, wool, muslin and rope, waterproof cameras and barometers. A plane, a train, a bus, a boat and a yak later, and I was at the peripheries of the planet. There, I found breathtaking views, monolithic outcrops, and vegetation that looked like something from another world. But I was on Earth, held by the same blue sky, feeling like I’d travelled light-years away.

If you want your Instagram to look like Nasa’s ISS feed, then check out these 10 landscapes on Earth that could definitely belong to other planets.

Ikh Nartiin Chuluu, Mongolia

This is an arid region in which traces of dinosaur eggs and fossils have been found. Rocky outcrops look like fallen meteorites that have been flattened and smoothened over time. From the top, the semi-desert steppe is solitary and the only signs of life are rare sightings of the elusive wild Argali sheep in a ravine or an abandoned mine.

Tsingy and Baobabs, Madagascar

Disney aside, the raw romance of Madagascar makes for a perfect inter-galactic love story. The Tsingy de Bemaraha Strict Nature Reserve is a UNESCO world heritage site, made of sharp limestone formations that seem to tear the sky open.

The upside down trees on Avenue de Baobab looks as if Calvin and Hobbes walked into the Jataka Tales, like currents of electricity, hanging on their own accord.

Sossusvlei and Damaraland, Namibia

Sossusvlei, which means marsh of no return, is a salt clay pan with burnt-camel thorn trees protruding out of the parched earth. The dunes are also covered in tiny shrubs growing in perfect circles, referred to by locals as ‘fairy circles’ because scientists have yet to learn the reason behind them.

Klip River Valley in Damaraland is the land of rhinos, the unicorns of the earth. Flanked by the Namib Desert in the west and the Kalahari in the east, it looks like a crater where tectonic plates rift and part in pleasant separation. The flat plateaus would make a perfect spot for a UFO landing.

Lamayuru, Ladakh, India

Referred to as ‘moonland’, the high altitude mountain desert is filled with mineral deposits. Its purple and teal hues, combined with the famous Lamayuru Monastery—known as the ‘eternal monastery’—carved out of the mountain, lends that divine sense of the grand unifying theory that everything is one.

Grey Glacier, Chile

At the southern tip of the Chilean Patagonia is a wall of warm blue ice, rising up as high as fifty feet, giving way to fjords, horns and glaciated valleys. To experience this sense of distance shortening, scale and sculpture is to experience the periphery.

Atacama, Chile

If Saturn was on Earth, here it is. In the driest, most uninhabitable part of the world, the stars look like sheet of silver and the sand is layered in snowy-looking salt. The meteorites found there help astronomers trace the beginning of the Big Bang, and here is where we can actually touch a thing that has burst through from outer space.

Mahabalipuram, India

In a small town in the state of Tamil Nadu this 5 meter wide, 250-ton round monolith has been precariously balanced on another rock for over a thousand years. Local residents quip that the rock is the god Krishna’s butter ball. It’s believed that at this spot the forces of this world give way to the mysterious, the miraculous and the marvelous.

Maras, Peru

Beside quinoa fields and hummingbirds and orchids, in one of Peru’s sacred Incan valleys there’s a stunning white natural stairway of evaporated salt ponds. It looks cold like Heaven (or Jupiter), and tastes like tears. Maybe it was a natural metaphor for the core, the source of things, like a lesson in the idea of the essence.

Borneo, Malaysia

You know those movies about alien plants from nearby galaxies colonizing us? In the deep rainforests of Kota Kinabalu’s forest reserve are the most bizarre and terrifying plants. Beside the giant meat-eating pitcher plant there’s a parasitic flower with leathery petals and no roots, no stems and no leaves. The Rafflesia is the world’s largest and most putrid smelling flower, one meter in diameter and blooms for about a week every year. As the forests dwindle, its status has changed from rare by nature to endangered by humans, but who knows, it may take over the world next week.

Lemaire Channel, Antarctica

The biggest tabular iceberg, over half a mile long and half a mile wide, broke off the Antarctic Larsen B Ice Shelf and is floating in the Antarctic Ocean. Climate change caused the complete collapse of this ice shelf in 2002, making it the largest disintegration event in 30 years. Witnessing a massive and heavy thing floating with only a third of its structure visible, inverts everything we know to be true. You feel a simultaneous sense of beauty and alarm from seeing it.

This article was originally published by vice.com. Images by Himraj Soin.

Ladakh: A Photographic Journey To Little Tibet - Ibex Expeditions

LADAKH: SPECIAL EDITION PHOTOGRAPHY JOURNEY TO “LITTLE TIBET”

Ladakh: A Photographic Journey To Little Tibet - Ibex Expeditions

Flying into Leh, the former capital of the Himalayan kingdom of Ladakh, feels more like landing on the moon than landing in India. Its harsh, mountainous terrain is starkly beautiful and very dry, due to its high altitude and cold desert climate. Dotted with stupas and whitewashed houses, the Old Town is dominated by a dagger of steep rocky ridge topped by an imposing Tibetan-style palace and fort.

Our 40th anniversary special edition journey to Ladakh this September will be led by Himraj Soin, an adventure travel journalist and photographer.

Following a theme of a responsible eco adventure, walking in the footsteps of the  this photo adventure journey will take you to all Buddhist monasteries, trek through breathtaking passes. You will discuss Buddhist traditions, learn about renewable energy projects with conservationists, visit outfits promoting sustainable development and walk along hillsides dotted with chortens and monasteries with exquisite Himalayan vistas.

Since 2012, Ibex Expeditions has supported the Give Back to Nature programme of WWF India and for each participant of this journey, we will donate US $ 40 per person.

ITINERARY
13 nights / 14 days
15 – 28 September 2019

15 September
Arrival Delhi
Hotel Imperial

On arrival into IGI Delhi airport, you will be met by our Office Assistant, holding a
name placard followed by transfer to your hotel. Since your arrival is late night, check-in to your hotel and catch up on jetlag.

16 September
Delhi
After breakfast, proceed on a guided tour of Delhi at 0930 hours which includes the city’s world heritage sites.
Drive through New Delhi roads & sights such as India Gate, The Presidential Palace and Parliament house to get a feel for the grand new city that Sir Lutyens built in the early 1900s.

17 September
Delhi – Leh (3500 m) by flight – Stok Village by road (30 minutes)
This morning you will be transferred to the airport to board early morning scheduled flight to Leh.
Note – Check In starts 1.5 hours prior to flight departure.
Met on arrival at the Leh airport followed by transfer to your hotel in Stok Village.
On this day, it is important for you to take it completely easy to allow for good acclimatisation, taking plenty of liquid and relaxing.
Today you meet Raja Jigmet of Ladakh and interact with him, as he welcomes you to his family home (note – subject to his availability).

18 September
Leh
This morning, you can still take it easy for further acclimatisation and then go out for
a half day sightseeing only after lunch. You will be taken by a Ladakhi guide to see two local sites and walk in Leh’s main bazaar.

Shanti Stupa – Dominating Leh from a high, rocky ridge, this gigantic white spired
pudding of a stupa was built in 1991 by Japanese monks to promote world peace.
You can circumbulate to canned mantras and meditate in the Buddha Hall, but the
greatest attraction is the stunning view over Leh. Ideally, make the breathless 15-
minute climb when golden afternoon light still illuminates the city but the steps up
from Changspa are already bathed in cooling shadow.

Shey monastery, 15 Km south of Leh was constructed by the first king of Ladakh,
Lhachen Palgyigon and of successive kings. Around 12 ft Shakyamuni Buddha’s
statue made by copper guilt is the largest in the region, built by Deldan Namgyal in
1633 is a funerary memorial to his father, King Singee Namgyal. There is another
statue of the Buddha three story in height at Dresthang down the castle. Stone
carving and many chortens are scattered around the Dresthang Gompa.

This evening visit a local home in the village for a culinary class and home cooked
meal. Interact with the host family and learn about the Ladakhi lifestyle.

19 September
Leh – Likir by road (45 Kms, 1.5 hours) – Yangthang (3630 m) by trek (3 hours)

After breakfast, check out and do a short drive to Likir where you visit the monastery atop a hill, upstream of the village.

Here you meet the trek staff and mules and thereafter commence trek to Yangthang. The trail passes over a small pass of Phobe La (3550 meters) and Charatse La (3650 meters). Arrive Yangthang and camp near the stream.

20 September
Yangthang – Hemis Shukpachan (3600 m) by trek (6-7 hours)
After breakfast, gear up for the day ahead.

You walk alongside the river and trees amidst the gorge to the Rizong Monastery, which is isolated at the back of a natural amphitheatre and has three main rooms to visit, two with large Buddhas and third with a large stupa.

After visiting the gompa, you ascend gradually to the Shushut pass (4000 m). From the pass you will have a view of Hemis Shukpachan as well as surrounding peaks. An easy descent towards your camp at Hemis Shukpachan takes a couple of hours. It is one of the major villages of Sham, and the name of the village is derived from the conifers (shukpa cedar or juniper).  Visit the village for photography and interaction with the locals.

21 September
Hemischukpachen -Thimsgam by trek (4 hours) – Alchi (3100 m) by road

From Hemis Shukpachan post breakfast, you go onto a flat ground as far as ill-defined pass alongside the Chortens (stupas). A steep descent will lead you to the right side of the mountains and climb steadily on the slope towards the Mebtak La (3720 m). After a short rest and enjoying the view from the pass, you head down to the village of Ang.  From Ang, you head towards the south on the dusty jeep road to the village of Thimsgam . Thimsgam, is well famed for its monastery, and is perhaps the most affluent  village in the Sham valley for its apricots, apples, nuts and beautiful houses.

Here you meet your transport followed by drive to visit the famous and ancient Lamayuru Monastery – the oldest monastery of Ladakh.  Thereafter, proceed onwards to Alchi Village for overnight stay, with a visit to the village for photography. The village of Alchi is unmissable for the murals and carvings of its world-famous temple complex, founded in the early 11th century by ‘Great Translator’ Lotsava Ringchen Zangpo and one of the Himalaya’s great artistic treasures. The village itself is a charming and relaxing place.

22 September
Alchi – Nubra Valley (3050 m) by road (230 Kms, 6-7 hours)
After breakfast, depart for Nubra Valley via the Khardung la pass. This is one of the highest motorable roads in the world, passing over the Khardung la pass at a height of 5602 m.  The road begins from Leh itself and winds its way up to reach the Khardung la.  The views from here are magnificent and take in the Zanskar and Karakoram ranges.

After this you descend to Shyok Valley in Nubra. From the hamlet of Khalsar, which is at the far end of Shyok Valley the trail divides, one heading up along the Nubra River to the Siachen Glacier and the other to the villages of Bogdang and Turtuk, which were once a part of erstwhile Baltistan, now a part of Indian-administrated Kashmir. On arrival in the valley, proceed to your resort for check in. Later visit Hunder village and take a brief Bactrian camel ride.

Hunder – is a pretty village set among lots of trees and mingling streams and is about 7km from Diskit. Between Diskit and Hunder is an area of sand dunes, not unlike the Sahara region if one ignores the snow-capped Alps like mountains in the background. The Gompa here is about a 2km walk above the village. It is completely deserted and quite eerie. There is only a small Buddha statue and some frescoes, but the climb is worth it for the views and atmosphere.

Hunder has a palace, deserted 50 years ago and now belonging to the Hunder monastery.  Hunder is a pretty village full of religious and historical sites including the palace and monastery and a huge Chorten arch with fine paintings in the dome.

Possibility for Upgrade to TUTC’s Chamba Camp in Diskit Village for a supplement.

23 September
Nubra Valley
After breakfast, visit Samstanling Monastery in Sumur.
The picturesque village of Sumur is a charming spot in Ladakh. Calm and peaceful is what this village is all about and giving it an added beauty is the Samstanling Monastery. Set amidst scenic mountains and greens Samstanling is a popular monastery which showcases the traditional touch with shades of gold, red and white. It houses about 50 monks.
Afternoon free for independent activities.

24 September
Nubra Valley – Pangong Lake (4350 m) by road (5-6 hours)
After breakfast, check out and drive to Pangong Tso. Remainder of the day is at leisure to walk around and for many photographic opportunities. Thereafter, drive to Tangste (14 kms away) where you check-in to your fixed camp for the night with the evening at leisure.

25 September
Pangong – Stok Village by road (160 Kms, 4-5 hours)
After breakfast, check out by 0900 hours and drive to Leh, visiting Thiksey monastery enroute.

Thiksey is an imposing monastery and one of the finest examples of Ladakhi architecture. This Gompa is situated on the top of the hill and part of the Gelukpa order.

The 12-storey monastery complex contains numerous stupas, statues; Thangkha, wall paintings, swords and a large pillar engraved with the Buddha’s teachings, there are sacred shrines and a many precious objects to be seen. The successive reincarnation of the Skyabje Khampo Rinpoche act as in charge of the monastery. The main prayer hall has a 15-metre-high-seated Buddha figure. 

In the afternoon, visit the Leh office of the Snow Leopard Conservancy Trust India (weekdays during office hours only). Interact with the staff and learn about the good work being done by them in partnership with the local communities to preserve this beautiful mammal.

Thereafter proceed to your hotel in Stok Village, for the night.

26 September Leh
Enjoy the colourful Ladakh festival which is a celebration of the rich cultural heritage of Ladakh spread over 4 days. The activities include archery competitions, polo matches, masked dances from the monasteries and dances by cultural troupes from the villages. There is also a grand procession/parade with musicians, dancers and cultural troupes.

27 September Leh
Continue to enjoy a second day of the Ladakh festival and imbibe in the colour and dance and music of this amazing landscape.

28 September
Leh – Delhi by flight -Depart
Early morning, you will be transferred to the Leh airport, for your flight to Delhi.

Southwest face of Nilkanth - Ibex Expeditions

First Ascent of Southwest Face of Nilkanth

 

 

Southwest face of Nilkanth - Ibex Expeditions

Climbers Chantel Astorga, Anne Gilbert and Jason made the first ascent of the Southwest face of Nilkanth between 29th September and 2nd October 2017. The following post written by Chantel Astorga is a riveting reflection of their ascent. The journey was managed by Ibex Expeditions.

This blog was originally published in American Alpine Club.

Between September 29 and October 2, Anne Gilbert Chase, Jason Thompson, and I made the first ascent of the southwest face of Nilkanth (6,596m, a.k.a. Nilkanta or Nilkantha).

Anne Gilbert, Jason, and Caro North had planned to attempt the southwest face in 2015, and they climbed most of the peak’s west ridge, which would have formed their descent route. However, the weather did not allow them to set foot on the southwest face (AAJ 2016).

Two years later, Anne Gilbert and Jason were awarded an AAC Cutting Edge Grant for another attempt on the unclimbed southwest face. They invited me to join, and with assistance provided by Ibex Expeditions, we arrived in mid-September at a 4,115m base camp directly below the south face. The monsoon extended well into the month, bringing warm temperatures and heavy rain.

Access to the southwest face involved 1,000m of ascent over gravel-covered slabs, and featured brief periods of exposure to overhead objective hazard. Straightforward glacier travel then led to the foot of the wall. Our only opportunity to acclimatize through the unset- tled weather was to ascend these approach slabs and establish an advanced base below the wall at 5,180m. At that time, the first third of the wall looked in poor condition, with high temperatures melting the ice and exposing loose scrappy rock. Rain only began to turn to snow around 5,100m.

On September 27 a long weather window began, and although not well acclimatized, we decided this would be our opportunity. We left advanced base on the morning of the 28th, finding just enough ice on the lower face to afford reasonable passage. There were a few pitches of mixed climbing up to M5, simul-climbing on steep snow slopes, and a steep WI5 ice pitch. Our first bivouac was at 5,670m in a moat.

On day two we pitched most of the climbing, which consisted of technical mixed ground and some beautiful steep ice. We were unable to locate a tent platform that evening, so we chopped out a bench at 5,944m and succumbed to a sitting bivouac under the stars. On most days the mountain would see convective cloud buildup and light precipitation during the afternoon hours.

Day three was the crux. We needed to find a way to the top of what we’d dubbed the Castle, a steep granite formation. As we got nearer, we saw that our intended route would require big-wall tactics. Instead, we opted to navigate around the Castle’s right side and found a delicate ice runnel leading into an overhanging cave. To exit, we tensioned over a slab and gained access to difficult mixed ground; this was followed by a steep ice pillar, eventually depositing us on top of the Castle at 6,248m. The bivouac here was the coolest ever, the exposure and views unforgettable.

Anticipating more straightforward climbing, we hoped day four would take us to the summit. However, the technical ground continued almost to the top. The rock quality deteriorated and route-finding became more difficult. By evening we had arrived at a false summit. The summit ridge looked steep, difficult, and exposed, so we opted to descend 30m to a flat bench and set up camp at 6,523m, the highest elevation any of us had slept.

After a cold and restless night, we awoke to another beautiful morning, sluggishly melted snow for water, and packed our bags to complete the summit ridge. This turned out to be straightforward, and a couple of hours later we were standing on the summit, psyched. Our route, Obscured Perception (1,400m, VI WI5 M6 A0 70° snow), had overall been of very high quality.

The west ridge was still fresh in the minds of Anne Gilbert and Jason, so we hoped for a fluid descent. We downclimbed névé ridges and made about 10 rappels, with Anne Gilbert doing a great job remembering the locations of the previously rigged anchors. Fifteen hours later, at around 2 a.m., we made it back to our advanced base, rested a while, and then continued our descent to base camp later in the morning.

– Chantel Astorga, AAC

This blog was originally published in American Alpine Club.

Image © Chantel Astorga, Anne Gilbert, Jason